Observing Life in a Middle Eastern Gypsy Camp
By Brittany N. Strange
The morning sun throws its rays
against the smooth, white washed walls. The air feels warm and promises to turn
hot as the day wears on. Every where around speaks of affluence, and has a
veneer of cleanliness and order. The sun’s rays only annunciate the sparkling
windows and clean tiled verandas of the beautiful Middle Eastern houses. An
enormous mosque sits amongst the sea of houses,
at the edge of a dusty field.
People in black hurriedly come and go from the mosque’s doors, largely ignoring
another black clad figure at the gates, begging for mercy through the giving of
alms. The hot wind throws up a cloud of dust from the field beside and turned
the beggar’s eyes that way. The dirty, rocky field is her home. She sees her
family and friends preparing for another busy day, another day for a Gypsy to
survive.
The six tents pitched in the dusty
field are made of large patchworks of colorful canvas and material woven from goat
hair, along with pieces of plastic and tarp. The tent is held down by large pieces
of rock and concrete blocks. The dingy exterior largely conceals the tidiness
within. Large woven carpets cover the ground or where there is no carpet, straw
mats can be found. The mats on which they sleep are stacked against one side of
the tent during the day, and the front is opened to let a bit of wind pass through,
a bit of relief from the stuffiness of the warm tent. The men clamber into a small
pick-up truck to go out and try to collect aluminum cans to be recycled and to bring
in some money for their families. Beside each tent bunches of large sacks stuffed
with cans speak of their labor on past days.
Surrounding the field are four roads,
three which are paved the other which is an extremely dry, dusty road ascending a hill,
which leads to a construction site. Every time a truck climbs the hill its tires throw
puffs of dirty sand down upon the camp, coating it in grime. The freshly washed laundry,
washed by the women in small tubs with the precious water they can collect is hanging out
to dry, and is infuriatingly covered with dirt from the dust clouds. The efforts at
cleanliness are made futile, whilst living in the dirt field. Nevertheless, the work
continues, and the women and children do not cease their activities.
The children sit in a circle away from
one of the tents. The sun is now pounding its hot rays at noon, but the children still
sit, playing, talking and laughing. They are hot, but there is no where else to go.
There is no school to attend or park to play in. One of the women and a young girl begin
to take down their tent for a thorough cleaning. Their belongings are neatly arranged
in stacks around the floor of the tent. The materials will be shaken free of the sand,
at least for a while, and the tent will be reconstructed. The women go about their work,
tidying and washing with their heads uncovered. While at home they see no need to cover;
however, if they would go begging at the mosque, or out to the city they would cover their
heads just like the Arab women. Those who pass by the camp and see the uncovered heads of
the women, despise them even more. From one tent a woman staggers out, obviously ill.
She stops as if unable to go any farther and sits on a rock away from her tent and is sick.
Where else was she to go?
Two donkeys wander around the field and even
make their way across the road. Cars dodge and honk, but the presence of animals on the
roadway isn’t so unusual, even in the city. The women and children aren’t worried. The
donkeys will return.
Young teenage boys carry large jugs and
canisters to go hunt for some life sustaining water. There are no running taps or even
wells to draw from at their homes. They will go to the construction site and see if
they can beg some of the water used to mix the concrete. Perhaps it is not the best,
but it is water. Or maybe someone in one of the surrounding houses will allow them to
fill up the containers from the garden hose. Water is hard to come by, but it must be
had. It is better for them to go and look for water than for their mothers or sisters
to go. They could be taken advantage of in exchange for the water.
The men arrive home at the hottest part
of the day. Just like the other workers of the city, they will take their mid day rest
from the heat. Even those who work in the air conditioned offices in the city will take
a rest. The women cook saffron rice on top of a single burner just inside the tent.
This is the noon day meal. The men, women and children gather at the front of the tent
to eat their portion. A bit of bread is also shared around. After the scanty meal the
women wash their utensils in a pot by the tent. The children will help as well. The
families sit at the front of their tents, hoping for a cooling breeze, some respite from
the unrelenting heat. As the hours pass the tents begin to casts shadows and the people
move to sit in them.
Later, work is taken up again. The
aluminum cans are taken from the sacks and the men begin to crush the cans with rocks,
while the children gather the crushed cans and place them in other sacks. The shadows
change positions and the people change with them.
Another search for water must be made
and this time one of the older boys loads a donkey with canisters and again sets off
for the construction site. Water is needed throughout the day and is a constant
struggle to come by.
Evening begins to fall and everyone
gathers toward home. Tonight there is a bit of bread, tea and coffee to be shared.
The women prepare the sweet tea and the thick coffee on the single burners. The
children gather around the adults outside of a tent. The sound of voices discussing
the day and telling stories to the children echo across the field, gently cutting
through the now dark and cooler air. A single gas light burns just outside the tent.
There are no electric lights for them, even though the houses and apartments surrounding
seem to be lit from every window. The gas light is extinguished to ration its oil and
the families disperse to their tents. The mats are spread over the floor and everyone
lies down for a night’s sleep. The day has passed. One more day with all of its
difficulties and experiences. Yet, this is life, a normal life in a Middle Eastern
Gypsy camp.